Our bus trip from Chiang Mai to Chiang Khong, a northern Thailand border town, stands out as one of our most memorable Thailand experiences.
We’re excited to share the details of this journey, including insights into the route, costs, accommodations, and the process of obtaining a Lao Visa On Arrival at the Chiang Khong border crossing.
This information will be particularly useful for travelers interested in exploring this less-traveled border run route to Laos.
We hope our experience inspires you to embark on your own Chiang Mai to Chiang Khong adventure.
Laos Border Run 2024 Updates
Please note these important updates regarding border runs and visa requirements for Laos, effective August 2024:
- Minimum Stay Requirement: As of August 23, 2024, a minimum stay of two nights in Laos is mandatory for border runs. This means you can no longer simply cross the border and return to Thailand on the same day.
- Border Run Limitations: While multiple border runs were once common, regulations have become stricter. Currently, you can only use this method to extend your stay in Thailand a maximum of two times per calendar year.
- Visa-Free Travel to Laos: Laos now offers visa-free travel to citizens of 169 countries as of August 2024. However, it’s crucial to wait for confirmation that this new policy is fully implemented at the Huay Xai border crossing before relying on it.
We recommend checking for official updates from the Lao embassy or immigration authorities closer to your travel date.
Planning Chiang Mai to Laos Visa Run
Initially, planning our trip from Chiang Mai to Laos felt a bit overwhelming. There’s limited information available online about the Chiang Khong route, and much of it is outdated.
Most travelers, especially backpackers and those doing visa runs, opt for the more popular southern route to Vientiane, where Thai embassy is located.
However, we wanted the fastest way to the border and back, which made Chiang Khong and the crossing to Huay Xai, Laos, more appealing. Our goal was to take a bus from Chiang Mai directly to the border.
We briefly considered a longer Laos trip to explore Luang Prabang. This would have involved a four-day round trip by slow boat, including overnight stops.
While the slow boat experience and Luang Prabang’s attractions sounded tempting, budget and time constraints led us to opt for a shorter, three-day trip.
This turned out to be a fantastic decision, allowing us to experience the border crossing and get a taste of Laos without a major time commitment.
Tickets for Chiang Mai to Chiang Khong Bus
A few days before our trip, we rode our motorbike to the Chiang Mai bus terminal to purchase tickets to Chiang Khong.
Note: now you have an option to purchase Greenbus tickets online.
The terminal is conveniently located about 10-15 minutes from the Old City by motorbike.
We opted for VIP tickets on Greenbus, which offered more comfort and amenities. While these tickets are roughly twice the price of standard fares, they are still quite affordable, costing 434 THB (under $13 USD) each way.
Although we initially planned to take a tuk-tuk or songthaew to the terminal on our departure day, having our motorbike rental made it easier to transport our two backpacks.
The area around the bus terminal has numerous small parking lots, all charging a nominal 10 THB ($0.30 USD) per day for motorbike parking.
We parked our bike, received a ticket, and walked across the street to the bus terminal.
The terminal has plenty of shops selling food and snacks, perfect for grabbing a quick bite before your journey. Rob enjoyed a delicious and inexpensive Thai breakfast, while I had already eaten.
Our Chiang Mai to Huay Xai Bus Experience
Upon arrival, we stowed our bags in the undercarriage storage and received luggage tags attached to our tickets.
Settling into our spacious and comfortable VIP seats, we were ready for the journey to begin.
Shortly after departure, we were provided with bottled water, juice, and a tasty snack – the Thai version of Oreos!
Although the onboard movie was in Thai, we enjoyed the scenic views outside. The initial part of the ride winds through lush green hills and forests.
Be warned, however, that the numerous turns during the first hour or two can be challenging for those prone to motion sickness. It’s a good idea to take precautions if needed.
The Bus Ride Through Chiang Rai
The entire bus ride to Chiang Khong took around 5 1/2 hours.
We made a 15-minute stop at the Chiang Rai bus station, allowing passengers to purchase food, snacks, and use the restroom.
It’s worth noting that our Greenbus, both to and from Chiang Khong, had an onboard toilet similar to those found on airplanes. This added convenience eliminated any worries about needing a bathroom break between stops.
After our brief stop in Chiang Rai, we continued on the second leg of our journey.
The bus made several additional stops along the way, possibly a mix of scheduled and on-demand stops for local passengers.
Where to Stay in Chiang Khong
We arrived at the Chiang Khong bus stop a little after 1 pm and hopped on a quick 5-minute tuk-tuk ride (30 THB, or $1 USD per person) to Chiangkhong Teak Garden Riverfront Onsen Hotel.
This beautiful resort sits right along the Mekong River and boasts stunning landscaping, a delicious breakfast (150 THB, $5 USD), and a restaurant with breathtaking river views.
Our room featured a super comfy bed and, thanks to booking in advance during the low season, we snagged a river view room for a steal – 1250 THB instead of the usual 3000 THB.
Where to Eat in Chiang Khong
After settling into our hotel, we ventured out to find a place for lunch. Chiang Khong is a compact town, easily explored on foot in about half an hour.
The main street is lined with shops and restaurants, and side alleys offer hidden gems like guesthouses and eateries.
We had heard about a Mexican restaurant on the main street, but unfortunately, it was closed when we passed by.
Intrigued by recommendations for a British pub called The Hub (now closed), we followed a sign down a side alley and discovered this charming establishment.
Owned by Alan Bate, who holds the Guinness World Record for the fastest circumnavigation of the globe by bicycle, the pub offered a unique and memorable experience.
As the only customers that afternoon, we enjoyed delicious fish and chips while Alan regaled us with incredible stories from his cycling adventures.
It was a delightful and unexpected encounter that added a special touch to our Chiang Khong visit.
Sadly, The Hub pub has since closed. However, there are still plenty of other options to satisfy your hunger in Chiang Khong.
On our trip back from Laos we’ve decided to stay an extra night in Chiang Khong, so we’ve had delicious and fairly priced Thai food for dinner at a place called Rin Bar.
Their selection of Western pub food also looked great!
Things to Do in Chiang Khong, Thailand
While Chiang Khong is primarily known as a border town, it offers a few attractions and activities worth exploring within the city itself.
Wat Luang Chai Sathan is a must-visit historical temple in Chiang Khong, showcasing stunning traditional Thai Buddhist architecture and housing a 13th-century stupa.
Allow at least an hour or two to explore the temple grounds and appreciate its serene atmosphere and historical significance.
More activities in Chiang Khong:
- Nationalist Chinese Soldiers Cemetery: Open 24 hours and free to enter, this cemetery serves as a poignant reminder of the Kuomintang soldiers who fought in the region. Its semi-circular layout, facing north towards their homeland, and the accompanying temple with its historical photos, offer a glimpse into a turbulent period in history.
- Explore a Local Market: Immerse yourself in local life at the Chiang Khong morning and afternoon markets. Browse through fresh produce, local snacks, clothing, and handicrafts. It’s a great place to experience the authentic atmosphere of a Thai town and find unique souvenirs.
- Stroll Along the Mekong Riverfront: Enjoy a leisurely walk or bike ride along the scenic Mekong River. Take in the views of the river and the Laos mountains in the distance. You’ll find several restaurants and cafes along the riverfront, perfect for a relaxing break.
Chiang Khong Border Crossing
The next day, we arranged a tuk-tuk through our hotel to take us to the Thai border immigration office. The ride took about 15 minutes and cost 100 THB per person.
At the border, we quickly obtained our exit stamps and proceeded to the bus stop for the Laos checkpoint.
The bus, which costs 25 THB per person, waits to fill up before departing across the Mekong River (previously, slow boats were used for this crossing). The wait was only about 10 minutes for us.
Upon arrival at the Laos checkpoint, we needed to obtain a Visa On Arrival. The process was surprisingly efficient, with only one family ahead of us in line.
The Visa On Arrival fee is 2000 THB, payable at the Laos immigration office.
Required Documents:
- Passport: Valid for at least six months beyond your intended stay.
- Passport photo: A recent passport-sized photo.
- Visa application form: Available at the immigration window.
- Entry/departure card: Also provided at the window.
Important Note: The visa application form requires you to provide an address in Laos, so have your hotel details readily available.
We received our visas within 15 minutes and were soon on our way to explore Huay Xai.
What to Do in Huay Xai, Laos
A 20-minute tuk-tuk ride from the border (100THB/person, payable in Thai Baht) brought us to Huay Xai, the Lao town across the Mekong River.
While Huay Xai shares a similar layout with Chiang Khong, with one main street running through it, it offers fewer amenities and attractions.
We briefly explored Huay Xai’s main street, but the intense heat limited our enthusiasm for extensive sightseeing.
We quickly found a place for lunch and decided to return to Chiang Khong for the night.
Note: as of 2024, travelers are required to stay in Laos for at least two nights before crossing the border back to Thailand.
For those seeking adventure, the Gibbon Experience is a notable attraction in the Huay Xai area.
This unique eco-tourism project allows you to zipline through the jungle and stay in treehouses, offering an unforgettable experience in the Lao rainforest.
Returning to Chiang Mai
Having purchased a one-way ticket to Chiang Khong, we bought our return ticket to Chiang Mai upon our return from Laos.
The bus station, conveniently located where we were initially dropped off, has a ticket office open until 6 pm. We opted for VIP seats again, having enjoyed the comfort on our outbound journey.
Our bus was scheduled for 10 am, so we checked out of our hotel after a delicious breakfast with a Mekong River view and arrived at the bus stop by 9 am.
The bus departed on time, and we settled in for the 5 1/2 hour ride back to Chiang Mai.
Upon arrival at the Chiang Mai bus terminal, we retrieved our motorbike and headed home, marking the end of our Chiang Khong border-crossing adventure.
We’d love to hear about your experiences with bus travel in Thailand and the Chiang Khong border crossing.
Have you visited this region? What recommendations would you offer to fellow travelers planning a trip to Laos from Chiang Mai?
Visiting Chiang Khong, Thailand: FAQs
Is Chiang Khong worth visiting?
Chiang Khong offers a unique blend of riverside tranquility and border town charm. While it may not have a plethora of attractions, it’s an excellent destination for those seeking a slower pace, stunning Mekong River views, and a taste of local Thai life. It also serves as a convenient gateway for exploring Laos.
Is Chiang Khong a city?
Chiang Khong is officially classified as a district (amphoe) within the Chiang Rai Province of Thailand. While it has a town center and serves as a significant border crossing point, it’s smaller and more laid-back than a typical city.
How do I get from Chiang Rai to Chiang Khong?
The easiest way to reach Chiang Khong from Chiang Rai is by bus. Frequent buses operate between the two towns, taking approximately 2-3 hours. You can purchase tickets at the Chiang Rai bus terminal or through online booking platforms.
Is Huay Xai worth visiting?
Huay Xai, while serving as a major border crossing point, is generally considered a transit town rather than a primary tourist destination. If you’re short on time, you might choose to simply pass through. However, if you have a day or two to spare, you can explore the local market, visit a few temples, or embark on the Gibbon Experience for an adventurous jungle trek and ziplining experience.
How do I get from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang?
The most common way to travel from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang is by slow boat down the Mekong River. The journey takes two days, with an overnight stop in Pakbeng. You can also take a speedboat, which is faster but less scenic and potentially more bumpy. Alternatively, flights are available between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang.
How do I get from Luang Namtha to Huay Xai?
The most convenient way to travel between Luang Namtha and Huay Xai is by bus. Several daily buses operate on this route, taking approximately 4-5 hours. You can purchase tickets at your guesthouse or a local travel agency in Luang Namtha. Minivans are also an option, although they can be more crowded and less comfortable.
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